Parker points for Domaine Jones

On a very normal day back in April a very unusual event took place.  David Schildknecht, the taster for Languedoc Roussillon for Robert Parker asked if he could come to visit Domaine Jones.  Now for those of you not in the know, Robert Parker's reviews in The Wine Advocate and his point system out of 100 are one of the most influential in the US and probably in the world.  So feeling very humble and not quite able to believe it, I welcomed David (a great lover of Grenache Gris) to Domaine Jones.  The tasting results came out in June and the complete review can be found on www.erobertparker.com but here are the comments on Jones - I hope you are sitting comfortably.....

Jones Rouge 2009            90 points

Jones Blanc 2010            91 points

Jones Blanc 2009            90 points

Domaine Jones Fitou 2010            (91-92)

Katie Jones purchased her vines on the the northern edge of the commune of Maury in 2009, commencing life as a vigneronne after having for numerous years worked as the commercial face of one of the Fitou appellation’s two large coops. (See my accompanying report on wines of the Languedoc for an account of Jones’s inaugural 2010 vintage Fitou).  Jones bottles her Roussillon 2009 fruits simple as Vin de France and has thus far marketed them almost entirely directly to consumers in her native UK (who thereby enjoy some terrific bargains), although a few French restaurants have recently become wise to the quality on offer from this small, immaculate cellar in Tuchan.  Fortunately, Jones has indicated her openness to sell through the trade in other export markets.

Jones Rouge 2009            90 points

Raised in used demi-muids and tank, the 2009 Jones Rouge is a pure Grenache grown on Maury’s dark schist. Strikingly evocative of very ripe strawberries, it adds interest and invigoration by way of smoky black tea, crushed stone, and white pepper.  Despite its fullness, this delivers long lasting levity and refreshment with its luscious fruit; offering a polished, pure, infectious introduction to the Grenache Noir grape much as the corresponding Jones Blanc epitomizes the far less well-known Grenache Gris.  Start drinking this and I guarantee you will have to restrain yourself to not drain the bottle.  (The 2010 was not yet assembled when I visited here to taste, but is individual lots promise a wine of at least equal quality.)

Jones Blanc 2010            91 points

From virtually pure Grenache Gris (certainly there are a few black and white vines in there) – since the cohabitating Muscat was entirely marked and segregated this year for a separate bottling – the 2010 Jones Blanc offers a knockout compendium of the seductive wiles of this cepage so seldom encountered outside of Roussillon.  Scents of narcissus, acacia, and ripe Persian melon translate into a luscious, soothingly- textured, yet refreshing palate on which fresh cress and myriad mineral nuances of seemingly crystalline nature offer a positively shimmering flavor interplay and tactile impingement.  Mouth-watering salinity; pungent smokiness; piquant citrus zest; and a bite of cress accompany the generous fruit on a long finish.  It would be a shame to miss out on some of this over the next couple of years, but that said it may well be worth following it for longer.

Jones Blanc 2009            90 points

From a 70 year old stand of mostly Grenache Gris that includes 500 Muscat vines, the 2009 Jones Blanc delivers musky floral perfume; piquant citrus oils, pungent mint and cress; along with very ripe Persian melon in an attention getting aromatic display and luscious, silken textured palate performance.  The herbal and citrus notes here seem to be heightened by – though certainly not solely attributable to- the Muscat; and no doubt some of the richness of texture here is attributable to Jones having regularly stirred the lees.  At only 13% alcohol, this manages to convey a welcome sense of levity for its vintage, not to mention for fruit from Maury; and while half of its volume was rendered in three new barriques (the rest raised in tank), there is only the merest hint of distinct woodiness, and then only as the wine warms up.

Domaine Jones Fitou 2010            (91-92)

Katie Jones – for more about whom, and about the majority of whose wines, see my accompanying Roussillon report – last year acquired an 80 year old block of Grenache and Carignan outside Paziols as well as a bit of Syrah that together filled three used barriques, from which I tasted the Domaine Jones 2010 Fitou.  Bright black raspberry and bilberry are set off by an underlying sense of crushed stone and accented by evocations of rosemary and thyme, juniper, lavender, and peat.  Silken in texture and palate caressing, this beauty at the same time finishes with a lilt, verve, interactive dynamic, and sheer refreshment that you will I believe otherwise search in vain for from its appellation.  Even in lieu of a track record, I venture to predict that this will be well worth following for at least the better part of a decade.